8 years on - Natural Light I
Kompong Som 11/20/97
Awaken to natural light after a long time in the den. Use communal facilities and start the day ~ 8:30 by rolling (but not smoking) a joint.
The $4 motobike is waiting for me outside as Sokha (?) shows me a fixed set of lights. I get on a moto to drive for the first time and he’s my pillion. Take it semi-comfortably around the block and decide to ride it into town. Learning as I go along. I drive to the Telephone place. Politely give Sokha 1500r (US$1=3,400r) and tell him thanks but no. Much more laid back here than in Phnom Penh, recalling the first moto driver from Pochentong.
The bloody call from here to Phnom Penh is US$1/min. As I leave, Sokha still me and pitching the bike. Chat a bit but am firm. Stride on to GST and pick up Honda Dream for $5. Top it up with 2L of gas ($1). Each L is good for ~ 15km and a full tank ~ 5L.
Head straight out of town. Road is OK except in patches. Even then, it’s not too bad. Very little traffic outside town. Swing by abandoned (except for drinks stand) Independence Hotel for beer and photos.
Drive back to hotel after my maiden 2-hr spin. Smoke the j. Begin to really appreciate Tree House feel of room. Les feuilles everywhere. A setting for blue windows, red ants and sleeping dogs. Blissfully begin to photograph the peace punctuated rhythmically by the sound of strange insects. Before hypnotically shooting the whole roll, I force myself to leave the room and take the moto out. First stopping by to confirm tomorrow’s room with “Chun” at Orchidee. Affirmative. Cruise east of Occidental towards Outres and become increasingly isolated.
Photo op of a lifetime slips by as I await these cows to walk under a sign. Of course, they’re taking their own sweet time. I shoot a couple of angles as they approach. Then, inexplicably, the roll runs out. Shit! “Slow down, slow down,” I urge the cows, frantically rewinding and fishing around my bag for that extra roll. Keeping my eye trained on the herd, I see them all walk into and out of my perfect frame as I’m threading the new roll. Then, the last cow stops, looks at me and shakes his bell a tinker or two. My heart is racing as I’m just about ready with the new roll. Then, she looks down again and plods on, just escaping the confines of my frame the moment I glimpse into the viewfinder. I laugh all to myself. However, a cute dog and 2 kids chanced by and partly made up for the uncooperative cows.
Back on the bike and on to Outres. By now I haven’t seen anyone for a while. Remind myself to stay on visibly trodden roads – and hence, away from mines – though it’s tempting to just turn down a side road on a whim. I see a promising candidate and turn towards the water. Park bike in a small clearing amidst some tall grass and walk the last 100m to the beach. It’s absolutely empty. Strip down and take my first dip in ages. Realize I haven’t bathed in 48 hours and it’s all the fresher.
Unfortunately, am still plagued about safety and before I get too relaxed, I’m dressing up again and walking back to the bike. It’s still there, of course. Cruise home with the wind blowing in my wet hair.
Park bike at guest house and walk down to Occidental beach for a beer. Coupla haoles around. Begin writing and soon a pair of Khmer guys comes by. One peers at my writing and begins a hesitant conversation, while simultaneously stealing glances and commenting on the other farangs. “Mr. Brown very handsome”. “Lady, like man – same same” indicating a rather athletic, tomboyish white female. They start commenting on my hair and how each other is a neuter and like to eat ice cream. I became suspicious but hum the automated jingle of the “ice-cream-man” driving about town in his colorful van. Coupla laughs. Then, he begins peeling my sunburnt skin and commenting on my penis size. I indicate no further interest in the conversation heading this way. They remain friendly but well-behaved, leaving after a while.
If not for them, however, I would not have tried “Boklahong”, an awesomely crunchy and tangy Khmer seafood salad with dried shrimp and crab (plate on beach ~ 1,500r). They let me try their order and I got one myself.
It’s now 4pm exactly. One could stay here a while.
Bad News. Last 24 hours I smoked a pack of Mild Seven lights. Am I nervous about tomorrow? More excited than nervous actually. After all, she has Hawaiian blood, her eyes change color and she reads faster upside-down. She’s also spoken of an Iroquois amulet, shaped like a lightning bolt, that possesses powers. Whoever touches it will have the same dreams as Amanda. And when it’s in color, it’ll come true.
Amanda gave the amulet to Belinda about 3 days ago.
Awaken to natural light after a long time in the den. Use communal facilities and start the day ~ 8:30 by rolling (but not smoking) a joint.
The $4 motobike is waiting for me outside as Sokha (?) shows me a fixed set of lights. I get on a moto to drive for the first time and he’s my pillion. Take it semi-comfortably around the block and decide to ride it into town. Learning as I go along. I drive to the Telephone place. Politely give Sokha 1500r (US$1=3,400r) and tell him thanks but no. Much more laid back here than in Phnom Penh, recalling the first moto driver from Pochentong.
The bloody call from here to Phnom Penh is US$1/min. As I leave, Sokha still me and pitching the bike. Chat a bit but am firm. Stride on to GST and pick up Honda Dream for $5. Top it up with 2L of gas ($1). Each L is good for ~ 15km and a full tank ~ 5L.
Head straight out of town. Road is OK except in patches. Even then, it’s not too bad. Very little traffic outside town. Swing by abandoned (except for drinks stand) Independence Hotel for beer and photos.
Drive back to hotel after my maiden 2-hr spin. Smoke the j. Begin to really appreciate Tree House feel of room. Les feuilles everywhere. A setting for blue windows, red ants and sleeping dogs. Blissfully begin to photograph the peace punctuated rhythmically by the sound of strange insects. Before hypnotically shooting the whole roll, I force myself to leave the room and take the moto out. First stopping by to confirm tomorrow’s room with “Chun” at Orchidee. Affirmative. Cruise east of Occidental towards Outres and become increasingly isolated.
Photo op of a lifetime slips by as I await these cows to walk under a sign. Of course, they’re taking their own sweet time. I shoot a couple of angles as they approach. Then, inexplicably, the roll runs out. Shit! “Slow down, slow down,” I urge the cows, frantically rewinding and fishing around my bag for that extra roll. Keeping my eye trained on the herd, I see them all walk into and out of my perfect frame as I’m threading the new roll. Then, the last cow stops, looks at me and shakes his bell a tinker or two. My heart is racing as I’m just about ready with the new roll. Then, she looks down again and plods on, just escaping the confines of my frame the moment I glimpse into the viewfinder. I laugh all to myself. However, a cute dog and 2 kids chanced by and partly made up for the uncooperative cows.
Back on the bike and on to Outres. By now I haven’t seen anyone for a while. Remind myself to stay on visibly trodden roads – and hence, away from mines – though it’s tempting to just turn down a side road on a whim. I see a promising candidate and turn towards the water. Park bike in a small clearing amidst some tall grass and walk the last 100m to the beach. It’s absolutely empty. Strip down and take my first dip in ages. Realize I haven’t bathed in 48 hours and it’s all the fresher.
Unfortunately, am still plagued about safety and before I get too relaxed, I’m dressing up again and walking back to the bike. It’s still there, of course. Cruise home with the wind blowing in my wet hair.
Park bike at guest house and walk down to Occidental beach for a beer. Coupla haoles around. Begin writing and soon a pair of Khmer guys comes by. One peers at my writing and begins a hesitant conversation, while simultaneously stealing glances and commenting on the other farangs. “Mr. Brown very handsome”. “Lady, like man – same same” indicating a rather athletic, tomboyish white female. They start commenting on my hair and how each other is a neuter and like to eat ice cream. I became suspicious but hum the automated jingle of the “ice-cream-man” driving about town in his colorful van. Coupla laughs. Then, he begins peeling my sunburnt skin and commenting on my penis size. I indicate no further interest in the conversation heading this way. They remain friendly but well-behaved, leaving after a while.
If not for them, however, I would not have tried “Boklahong”, an awesomely crunchy and tangy Khmer seafood salad with dried shrimp and crab (plate on beach ~ 1,500r). They let me try their order and I got one myself.
It’s now 4pm exactly. One could stay here a while.
Bad News. Last 24 hours I smoked a pack of Mild Seven lights. Am I nervous about tomorrow? More excited than nervous actually. After all, she has Hawaiian blood, her eyes change color and she reads faster upside-down. She’s also spoken of an Iroquois amulet, shaped like a lightning bolt, that possesses powers. Whoever touches it will have the same dreams as Amanda. And when it’s in color, it’ll come true.
Amanda gave the amulet to Belinda about 3 days ago.
posted by jngah @ 2:47 AM
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